Chef's Table - November and December
Chef John Zehnder, CEC,ACE, AAC
When I started to think about what I would write in my Chef’s Table column for the holidays I started to page through a stack of my heirloom recipes. In that pile was a newspaper clipping from 1934 with a poem that is as relevant today as it was during the Great Depression. Thought you might enjoy it so…here it is:
Thank God for dirty dishes
They have a tale to tell.
While others are going hungry, we’re eating very well.
With home and health and happiness,
I shouldn’t want to fuss,
For by this stack of evidence
God’s been very good to us.
Fudge seems to be one of those holiday treats that’s popular year in and year out.
My heirloom recipe collections have several dozen fudge recipes including the “Serviceman’s Fudge” recipe developed by the U.S. government during World War II. It could be shipped even to tropical climates and survive.
But it seems the all-time favorite fudge recipe is “Fantasy Fudge” printed for many decades on the Kraft Marshmallow Crème jar. For some reason that popular recipe was changed about eight years ago and folks tell me it’s just not the same taste they remember from their childhood. Well, I have the original recipe from 1954. No microwave version since they weren’t invented yet and anyway, there’s something to be said about the “old school” way of making fudge that can’t be duplicated in a microwave.
My holiday gift to you is this recipe:
The Original Fantasy Fudge Recipe
MAKES ABOUT THREE POUNDS
3 cups sugar
¾ cups margarine or butter
2/3 cup evaporated milk
12 oz. package semi-sweet chocolate chips
7 oz. Kraft Marshmallow Crème
1 cup chopped walnuts or pecans
1 tsp. vanilla extract
HAPPY HOLIDAYS!
Chef's Table - September and October
By Chef John Zehnder, CEC, ACE, AAC
It's Fall - Let's Talk Squash!
Squashes are like dogs - so many different varieties, colors, shapes and sizes. By looking at them it's hard to imagine that they have anything in common. All squashes are the edible fruits of various members of the gourd family (scientific name: Cucurbitaceae). They're typically divided into two categories - summer and winter - based on peak season and skin/seed type. Summer squash are any of several varities of squashes with a thin skin, edible soft seeds, moist flesh and mild flavor with a peak season of April through September. Winter squash is not normally eaten raw and tends to be sweeter and more strongly flavored. Peak season for winter squashes is October through December. The squash family includes many varieties including spaghetti, butternut, acorn, patty pan, hubbard and zuchinni to name a few.
Squash are versatile that they can be used for appetizers, main course, vegetable course and dessert.
For this "Chef's Table" I'm going to share a recipe handed down from my mother and like most of my recipes - there's a story to go along with the recipe. A close friend of her father originally came from India and introduced them to curry as a seasoning ingredient. Several of my mother's recipes use curry, a somewhat exotic spice to most folks until fairly recently. As a kid, we often had curry dishes and I just assumed most families did the same. Still amazes me the number of people who are unfamiliar with curry! Nothing like the pungent aroma of curry in a kitchen on a cold winter's day!
Curry and winter squash - a flavor perfect pair!
We use this recipe on special events here at Zehnder's and it's surprising how many rave reviews we get.
CURRIED BUTTERNUT SQUASH SOUP RECIPE
6 Servings
3 TBSP extra virgin olive oil
1 cup chopped onions
4 clove garlic - minced
1/2 TBSP curry powder (buy the mild/not hot variety)
1 tsp. cayenne pepper (optional, will add a little heat to recipe)
2 tsp. ground black pepper
2 lbs. butternut squash - peeled, seeded, one inch diced
6 cups chicken broth
salt to taste - don't salt until the end since the chicken broth adds salt to the recipe
1 pint sour cream
METHOD
1. In a large pot, heat olive oil to medium heat. Toss in onions and saute until golden brown.
2. Add garlic and curry powder and cook an additional minute. Curry is an ingredient that needs to "sweat" in oil to bring out its true potential. Too many cooks add it toward the end of a recipe - wrong! Probably the biggest mistake when cooking with curry.
3. Add the pepper, squash and chicken broth. Bring to boil and simmer for 25-30 minutes, covered, until squash is tender and falls apart.
4. Add salt to taste - probably 3 to 4 teaspoons.
5. Using a wire whip, whisk as smooth as you can. If you want it completely smooth puree in a food processor or blender. Personally, I like it a bit lumpy since that's how we always served it at home.
6. Add a cool dollop of sour cream on the top and serve. Chopped parsley or fresh chives is a nice garnish.
THIS SOUP REHEATS WELL AND CAN BE STORED IN REFRIGERATOR FOR 2-3 DAYS.
Chef's Table - August
"Competition is the stone on which all chefs must sharpen their talents."
Being a chef is a little different from many careers. I tell all of my chefs that if they want to find out how good a chef they really are - compete!
Ever watch "Iron Chef" on the Food Network? In the real world of chefs there are actually several similar types of competitions each year where chefs can see how their skills stack up with their peers. I'm proud to say that the chefs from Zehnder's Restaurant have done extremely well over the years and have many medals and trophies to show for it.
One of the most prestigious of these events happens annually in April. The Crisco National Pie Championships in Celebration, Florida where over 800 pies are entered with hopes of being named "the best pie in America".
There are four categories: student, amateur, commercial (the frozen pies you buy at the grocery store) and professional bakers (most work in independently owned bakeries and pastry shops).
This year's top honor in the professional category with her Chocolate Truffle Surprise Pie is Pastry Chef Diane Selich from Zehnder's Bakery.
She beat out 28 other professional chefs who entered 130 pies in eight categories.
Quite the accomplishment!
CHOCOLATE TRUFFLE SURPRISE PIE
Filling:
1/2 cup white chocolate chips
3/4 cup raspberry preserves
2 cups half & half
3/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup cornstarch
2 egg yolks
1/8 tsp. salt
1/4 cup cocoa, sifted
1/2 tsp. vanilla
1 tsp. unsalted butter
4 cups whipped cream
METHOD:
Melt the chips in microwave and spread evenly over a cooled, baked pie crust. Allow to cool to room temperature and spread raspberry preserves over the chocolate. Put one cup half & half and sugar on low heat in double boiler - bring to low boil. In a mixing bowl add the other cup of half & half along with the egg yolks, salt, vanilla, cornstarch, and cocoa. Mix well with a wire whip until smooth. Add to the heated mixture, stirring constantly to prevent lumps until it thickens. This mixture needs to be smooth! Pour over the raspberry preserves. Cool completely and top with whipped cream.
Chef's Table - May and June
I’m an “old school chef”! By that I mean it’s my belief that food should be enjoyed seasonally and locally – fresh is best and each season has its delectable specialties. Hard pink tomatoes
in January have never excited me! And…I always have my suspicions that many of the agricultural chemicals now banned in the U.S. have somehow found their way to third world countries where much of our winter produce is grown. Problem is, we all want what we want NOW. We don’t understand past generation who savored strawberries only in June, made
fresh peach pie only in July and used the three to four week window of opportunity in
mid-August to early September to finally eat all the sweet corn and garden grown tomatoes
they possibly could. To me they had the right idea!
In many areas of the U.S. there has been a resurgence of the local farm markets because many more folks than in the recent past want their food fresh and simple. After all, that’s the way
food is at its best.
The state of Georgia grows one of those “here today, gone tomorrow” foods that has become
a nation-wide “right of spring”. The Vidalia onion! Vidalias are grown in a small area of Georgia where temperature and soil conditions are perfect for growing a truly sweet onion.
The French have know since the days of the Roman Empire that soil has an effect on the flavor of food and grapes – they call it TERROIR (teh-RWAHR). Here at Zehnder’s we feature a Vidalia onion soup – one of our signature recipes and the second most requested recipe – most requested is our cabbage salad dressing. It’s a simple soup and in cooking most times simple
is best. Multiple ingredients and many steps rarely ever make for a better final product.
The secret is most onion soups use a heavy beef stock, but our Vidalia onion soup has a
double strength chicken stock. Makes all the difference in the world and really highlights
the sweetness of the Vidalias.
Vidalia Onion Soup
Serves Six
2 lbs. Vidalia onions – regular onion just won’t do!
¼ lb. butter
3 qts. canned chicken broth
½ tsp. leaf oregano
½ tsp. ground black pepper
salt to taste
1. Saute onions in butter until tender but not browned.
2. Place chicken broth in a saucepan/kettle with sautéed onions and spices, bring to a boil then down to a simmer and leave on stove until amount of liquid is reduced by one-third.
3. Taste at this point and add salt to your taste. Remember! The butter and chicken broth already have salt in them. If you salt this soup first and reduce the amount of liquid – your soup will be too salty.
You can enjoy it right of the saucepan or add garlic croutons into the bowl, top with a slice of provolone cheese and brown it until deliciously bubbly under your oven’s broiler. ENJOY!
Chef's Table - March and April
March and April are those transition months each year when winter begins to release its icy grip and everything outdoors seems fresh and alive. St. Patrick’s Day and Easter are the two holidays we normally associate with these two months. Hey, if you’re Irish St. Patrick’s Day is THE holiday of the year! St. Patrick’s Day cuisine - corned beef and cabbage – is always predictable, but Lent and Easter give chefs an opportunity to think creatively about our menu offerings.
Many still hold to the Lenten custom of meatless Fridays and it’s always surprising here at the restaurant the number of seafood and non-meat requests we get each week. For the past two years we’ve served a Lenten dinner of the month featuring tilapia. Tilapia is an interesting fish in that it is the most successful farm raised fish commercially available. Native to South America where it has been raised for several decades, tilapia has quickly moved to the dinner tables of America because of its mild white flesh and affordability.
Chefs often refer to tilapia in the same way they talk about chicken breast – a “blank slate”. Chefs can create almost any flavor combination to go with this mild flavored fish; exotic or simple, savory and sweet.
Here’s one of my personal favorites – served four
BROILED TILAPIA PARMESAN
½ cup Parmesan cheese
¼ cup butter- softened
3 TBSP mayonnaise
2 TBSP lemon juice
¼ tsp. dry basil leaves
¼ tsp. ground black pepper
¼ tsp. celery salt
½ tsp. salt
¼ cup olive oil
2 lbs. tilapia fillets (4/8 oz. fillets)
METHOD
Pre-heat broiler to medium hot.
Mix all ingredients, except the fillet, in a bowl and set aside.
Lightly grease your broiler tray or aluminum foil covers cookie sheet with olive oil.
Place fillets on greased pan and broil for about two minutes on each side.
Remove from oven and spread Parmesan mixture evenly over the top side of each fillet.
Return to broiler and allow to get lightly browned.*
Serve with a tossed green garden salad and a rice pilaf or olive oil tossed pasta.
*Follow the tried and true maxim for cooking fish – “if you’re not quite sure it’s done – take it of the oven”. There’s nothing worse than overcooked fish!
ENJOY!
QUESTIONS OR COMMENTS
John Zehnder, Certified Executive Chef
Director of Zehnder's Food & Beverage
jzehnder@zehnders.com
[Previous Chef's Tables Recipes]
Chef's Table - January/February
SCHLACHTFEST
It’s true! In today’s world it’s almost impossible to “stop and smell the roses”. Those simple pleasures and events that once took center stage are now just distant memories.
William Zehnder, Sr., my grandfather, was an American Revolution history buff and George Washington was his hero. Washington’s birthday, February 22nd, was special for him and he always celebrated it by throwing a Schlachtfest party. At Schlachtfest the male members of the Zehnder family – all the uncles and cousins - would gather together to butcher a hog or two and spend the day visiting ( my uncles conversing in Bayerrisch – the low German local Frankenmuth dialect) and making sausages – liver sausage, pork sausage, blood sausage, headcheese and memories that would last a lifetime. The day would conclude with a dinner where the rest of the family was invited and everyone would dine on sausages, sauerkraut, boiled potatoes.
Funny how those kinds of events take a more prominent place in one’s recollections and reminiscences now than they did at the time they were happening.
Schlachtfest lunch was always braised beef shortribs and mashed potatoes. And…that simple braised shortrib, an inexpensive and economical cut of beef never considered upscale dining fare, is now the darling “meat to eat” at many white tablecloth restaurants and country clubs. My grandmother would be amazed!
HERE’S THE SCHLACHTFEST BEEF SHORTRIB RECIPE
Serves Six
6 lbs. bone-in beef shortribs – get the shorter three or four bone cuts
(you’ll need almost a pound per person)
2 cups flour
½ cup cooking oil
3 medium carrots – cut into ½ ” thick circles
2 large sweet onions – large dice
3 green bell peppers – cut into ¾” strips
3 stalks celery – cut into 1” pieces
2 cups cold water
4 cups canned diced tomatoes
4 bay leaves
2 tsp. ground black pepper
1 TBSP Zehnder’s Chicken Seasoning
1 cup cold water/1 cup flour
- Lightly flour the shortribs.
- Heat oil in large deep skillet until medium hot – sear shortribs until browned.
- Remove shortribs from skillet and add in vegetables.
- Saute 3-4 minutes at medium high heat.
- Add water and deglaze pan, working up all the caramelized bits & pieces.
- Add tomatoes and all spices/seasonings – simmer 15 minutes
- Mix flour and cold water until lumps are gone.
- Thicken tomato/water/vegetable in skillet at medium heat– gravy thickeness.
- Taste and adjust salt to your liking.
- Place shortribs in roaster pan and ladle the thickened gravy over shortribs.
- Cover with lid or tightly cover with aluminum foil.
- Bake in a 350F oven for 2-2 ½ hours or until tender.
- Cream the shortening with the egg, vanilla and brown sugar
- Sift the dry ingredients and mix with the creamed mix
- Add coconut, nuts and cherries
- Mix well and drop onto a greased cookie sheet
- Baked at 350F for 12-15 minutes – light brown.
QUESTIONS OR COMMENTS
John Zehnder, Certified Executive Chef
Director of Zehnder's Food & Beverage
jzehnder@zehnders.com
[Previous Chef's Tables Recipes]
Chef's Table - November/December
Our Most Requested Recipe
Chef John Zehnder, CEC, AAC
I was all set to write my Chef’s Table for November/December when I read an article by a good friend and fellow Golden Toque chef – Chef Gino Corelli.
I think it’s worth sharing!
THE HISTORY OF APRONS
I don’t think our kids know what an apron is!
The principle use of Grandma’s apron was to protect her dress underneath, but along with that it served as a potholder for removing hot pans from the oven.
It was wonderful for drying children’s tears and, on occasion, used for cleaning out dirty ears.
From the chicken coop the apron was used for carrying eggs, fussy chicks and sometimes half-hatched eggs to be finished in a warming oven.
When company came those aprons were ideal hiding places for shy kids.
And…when the weather was cold Grandma wrapped it around her arms.
Those big old aprons wiped many a perspiring brow bent over a hot wood stove.
Chips and kindling wood were brought into the kitchen in that apron.
From the garden it carried all sorts of vegetables.
After the peas were shelled it carried out the hulls.
In the fall the apron was used to bring in freshly fallen apples.
When unexpected company drove up the road it was surprising how much furniture that old apron could dust in a matter of seconds.
When dinner was ready Grandma came out onto the porch and waved her apron.
A sign to the men it was time to come in from the fields.
It will be a long time before someone invents something as useful as that old apron that served so many purposes.
Grandma used to set her hot apple pies on the windowsill to cool.
Her granddaughter set theirs on the windowsill to thaw!
They would go crazy nowadays trying to figure out how many germs were on that apron, but I don’t think I ever got anything from that apron except Grandma’s love.
HAPPY HOLIDAYS EVERYONE!
Bachelor Button Cookies
(An heirloom recipe that dates back to the 1920’s)
½ cup shortening
1 cup brown sugar
1 egg
½ tsp. vanilla
2 cups all purpose flour
¼ tsp. salt
1 tsp. baking soda
½ cup shredded coconut
½ cup walnut meats
½ cup candied cherries – cut fine
QUESTIONS OR COMMENTS
John Zehnder, Certified Executive Chef
Director of Zehnder's Food & Beverage
jzehnder@zehnders.com
[Previous Chef's Tables Recipes]
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